7 Reasons to Raft the Penobscot

Ted Tibbetts // December 10 // 0 Comments

1. Safety

Really.  I know, I know, the Penobscot is touted as the most aggressive river in the Northeast.  Yes, a Class V rapid named Exterminator stares you down 30 seconds form put-in. And if you survive that, another Class V, The Cribworks tumbles through 100 yards of boulder-strewn terror 20 minutes below that.  

And while those boulders are rock-hard granite, that’s good.  Other rivers around the world cut through softer rock and create dangerous undercuts. There the water goes under the rock, possibly carrying you, too.  Other rivers have sieves, or keeper holes, like undercuts, that can suck in swimmers and not let them go.  

While there’s always some degree of risk in whitewater, there is little risk of keeper features on The Penobscot.  You might hit some rocks and wind up with a few bruises, but you’ll be okay. And, if significant injuries do occur, nearby road access makes getting help easier.  We’re still 45 minutes from the hospital but at least the hiking part of the journey will be short.

2.  BBQ River Lunch

Yup.  I consider lunch a critical consideration for a day on the river.  And I’m spoiled! We rafted the Wenatchee in Washington one summer.  We met for put-in in a box-store parking lot. They handed me a ham sandwich and a bag of chips.

I didn’t mean to be rude, but I must have looked disappointed because the dude looked offended.  I didn’t want to make a scene and be labeled “one of those people,” so I took my sandwich and chips over behind the tree so I could scoff at it in private.

On the Penobscot, every company, to my knowledge, throws a BBQ for lunch.  Chicken, Steak, Fish or Veggie burger. With sides! Some sort of pasta salad or stir-fried rice, sometimes bread, often a cookie for dessert!  Coffee, hot chocolate, cold drinks (non-alcoholic…state law!) That’s what I call LUNCH!  

I have had decent deli-style lunches on other rivers like the American or the Chattooga.  But other rivers like the Ocoee are shorter so there’s no lunch at all. Sad, sad day. 

So, for sure, Penobscot style lunches rank up there as some of the best in the country!  You’ll need the energy to finish up the day!

3.  Penobscot Guides

I am continually impressed by the skill level of my river brethren and sisteren.  They understand the nuances of the current; they can move boats with precision and finesse.  

So picture this:  I finish up “working” a trip, the guests leave, and I often head back upriver to bounce down a rapid in a boat with other guides.  Why? They’re good! I want to steal their knowledge! And these guys and gals LOVE the river. It’s not unusual for a spontaneous party to break out at a rapid.  I’ll be there in a kayak or a raft and the next thing you know there are 15-20 guides there hanging out playing in the river. How many people do you know that go to work to play after work?

And they are good people to boot.  I can honestly say that I have friends in every company.  They’ve saved me from flat tires, defunct alternators, forgotten life jackets, and myself (they’ve fished me from the frothy waters on more than one occasion.) 

I don’t want to sound like a homer-elitist, but the challenges of this river produce excellent boatmen (and women).  I found it hilarious one time on another river when my eleven-year-old daughter saw our boat pointing into the current running at a gorge wall and looks at me.  “What’s he doing,” she mouthed, pointing at the guide. I shrugged my shoulders. Five seconds later we hit the rock wall and the lady in the front right fell out.  She was fine. But even my daughter, who grew up with “˜Nob guides, knew that this particular guide lacked experience. And we have rookie guides, too–everyone needs to learn.  But, collectively, the group of guides on the Penobscot rank up there as some of the best boat drivers I’ve seen.

4.  Views of Katahdin and Wildlife

Despite the rather close proximity to something that can be loosely interpreted as a road, for most of the trip you feel like you are in the wilderness.  Occasionally you’ll hear a logging truck rumble by, but, for the most part, civilization disappears. On the lower river, you float by a few rustic camps, but otherwise, views of Katahdin, Maine’s highest peak, eagles, osprey, rising fish, and occasional moose and deer dot the landscape.  

5.  Surfing

Flushy, roller-coaster rivers can be fun.  The foam-tipped haystacks toss the boat up and down and the swift current keeps a steady stream of scenery.  But some rivers offer features where it’s fun to stop and play. Literally, an aquatic playground. Varying “holes” on the Penobscot offer chances to “surf.”  When the water pours over rock, it forms a backcurrent. Paddling back into that current grabs the boat and drives it into the downstream current. The result?  The boat sticks in that spot, often bucking up and down and drenching everyone with spray. (I can often be heard giggling like a 4-year old girl at that point!) 

Hanging out at a spot like this and playing like a river otter provides an additional experience to river-running.  And oftentimes, dynamic and exciting (but safe) things happen at the play spots.

6.  Nesowadnehunk Falls!

So, The Falls, short for Nesourdnahunk Falls, qualifies as one of those play spots I was just telling you about.  But on steroids. In my paddles around the United States, Chile, Costa Rica, and Ecuador, I HAVE NEVER SEEN A PLACE LIKE THE FALLS!  (Sorry to yell, but, seriously, I mean it.) What makes it so special? Let me count the ways!

View of Katahdin from above Nesowadnehunk Falls

First, it’s dynamic!  An eight to twelve-foot drop–depending on the water level, who you talk to, and the nervousness level of the guest about to tumble over it–can easily flip a 16-foot raft. 

Second, it’s incredibly safe…which is good…see the first reason!  In fact, it’s so safe that my aforementioned daughter chucked herself over it when she was 12 on an inflatable shark.  Really. (I needed a video for Shark Week that summer so I bought a shark. At a guide meeting, I said, “I need someone to ride this shark over the falls for the video.”  My daughter quickly raised her hand. “I’ll do it!” So she did.) At the bottom, a large recovery pool welcomes any swimmers or capsized rafts. Injuries here usually come from hitting yourself in the face with a paddle or holding on too tight.

Third, you can surf in multiple spots!  If you want the intense, but safe, experience of a waterfall in your lap, surf the bejesus out of Little Hole.  If you fall out, get a quick breath of air, then relax for the ride. It’ll get cold, dark, then silent. 8 seconds later you’ll pop up about 30 feet from the boat.  It’s an experience! For a mellower surf, head over to Fisherman’s where the ride isn’t quite so intense, but you can wave to all the spectators on the rocks.

Fourth, (and this is incredible), sometimes once isn’t enough.  You can carry the boat back up over the rocks, ferry across the top of the waterfall and do it again and again until you beg for mercy.  (To be fair, not all companies do this, but many do.) I can’t say I’ve been everywhere in the world, but I’ve boated in many places and I’ve NEVER been able to do something like this. 

Yup, The Falls is the bomb! It’s always bittersweet pulling out of there for the day.  On one hand, it’s a place you could spend all day. (I have!) But on the other–man, that’s tiring and you still have a couple of Class IV rapids to navigate!

7.  Apre Raft

Seriously, it’s a thing here.  One perk that makes being a raft guide more fun than being a teacher is that we get to drink beer with our clients!  There’s no better way to end a day of thrashing around a river than watching a video and slide show of the day’s adventures while tipping a pint.  (My colleague and good friend once leaned over to me during a video and said, “I must have been born to be a raft guide–I never get tired of steak and rafting videos.”  

Other places around the world don’t do this.  After getting back to the base after a Pacuare trip in Costa Rica, everyone just left.  There was no closure. No cheering of spectacular hits on the video. No laughing at the funny “blowfish” face at the splashy wave.  No hugs and goodbyes. Kind of empty.  

The “˜Nob is different.  To my knowledge, every company hosts some sort of video/slide show after the trip.  What a way to relive those dynamic moments when your life passed in front of your eyes.  Or even better, when your buddies’ lives passed in front of their eyes and you got to see what they looked like!  I’ve seen HUNDREDS of post-trip videos and they never get old.


Best time to Raft the Penobscot

When is the best time of year to go rafting in Maine, you ask?  Like most things, it depends on what you want. Early in the spring, we tend to get higher water.  But it’s cold water. In the early part of summer, the water’s a bit warmer and you’re more likely to be on a smaller, more intimate trip.  (Which may mean more play time on various features). In the heart of summer, the air and water tend to be warmer, but the trips get larger.  That can be fun, though, with 98 people cheering your flip at the Falls. And, speaking of weather, the cool thing about rafting is that you can have fun no matter the weather.  I’m not a big fan of hiking in the rain. Can’t say I’d enjoy a day at the beach in a monsoon. Waterskiing flat out sucks in the rain. But I’ve still had a blast on the river in the rain.  Hey, you’re going to get wet anyway!

So there you have it.  Whitewater rafting the Penobscot River is a MUST-DO if you are in the Miilinocket or Katahdin region.  It’s a blast for families, friends, or bachelor and bachelorette parties, or, really, anyone looking for adventure.  Call and book your trip today!

About the Author Ted Tibbetts

Ted, a teacher, raft guide and carpenter, has been teaching high school English for over 20 years. A Milken Award winner and a Maine Teacher of the Year State Finalist, Ted loves working on his Skoolie, "Snug," and traveling around to splash in rivers.

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