Skoolie conversion can be an overwhelming process! Use this list to break it down into manageable parts.
One step at a time!
Mechanical Maintenance
Change Oil
Change Fuel Filter
Check Transmission Fluid
Check Coolant
Skoolie Conversion Deconstruction
Seat Removal
Gotta get those seats outta there before you can do much else! Â
I’m a big advocate of the angle grinder method!
Rear Heater Removal
Some people like to keep them, but they take up space and will only work if the bus is
running. I recommend keeping the ones near the windshield for defrost.
Floor Removal
Optional…but I HIGHLY recommend it! It’s pretty nasty under there and I imagine:
1. You want to start with a clean slate and
2. You want to KNOW about any rust issues under there.
Rust Remediation
Grind, sand, rust convert and patch holes if necessary.
Ceiling and Wall Skin Removal
Again, optional. BUT, the “insulation” up there isn’t really insulation, it’s sound
dampening material. And there are most likely leaks to fix and a bunch of mouldy crap
up there. Do it now!
Wiring Removal
Be systematic here so that you don’t run into issues with interlock and alarm systems.
But you don’t need wiring for flashers, stop arms, etc. And you can repurpose a lot if it!
Delete Flashers / Stop Arms
Required by law in most states. Â
Window Removal and Cleaning and/or Deletion
Optional. But definitely check for leaks. Many people replace them with RV windows
because RV windows are more energy efficient
Skoolie Conversion Construction
Floor Paint
Keep that rust at bay!
Subfloor Insulation and Subfloor
In my humble opinion, framing the floor isn’t necessary. Glue rigid foam and subfloor (I
like Advantech) to the metal bus floor. Some people put their finish floor on as well. It’s
easier now rather than working around framing. But you run the risk of dropping tools
and materials on it during the build. Also, some flooring doesn’t respond well to the
weight of cabinets on it.
Rough Wiring, Rough Plumbing and Framing
This is where the order of things gets tricky. Depending on what’s going where and the
wiring choices you make (solid vs stranded wire, conduit/no conduit), these three
processes might be intertwined.
For example, if you plan to sprayfoam the ceiling, you should run conduit and wiring up
there first. Â
But you will probably be putting light switches on walls, so you need to frame those
before running wires.
Same applies to plumbing!
Also, consider the ceiling. You may want to put your finish ceiling on now and run your
walls to it, OR you could frame the walls then run your ceiling in between. I framed first,
installed the ceiling, then sprayed coats of polyurethane on it.
Sheath Walls
Be sure to build “corners” in your framing so that you have “nailer” to which you can
secure your sheathing!
Entry Stairs
You can do this whenever, really. I didn’t want to do it too early to lessen the risk of me
damaging them during the build. Â
Cabinet Building and Installation
It’s getting exciting now! Starting to look like a living space!
Paint, Stain, Poly
Before you get too much in and start splattering paint all over it, get the painting done!
Appliance Install
Put in the stove, fridge, sink, and other luxury items!
Finish Wiring
Install switches, receptacles and cover plates
Finish Plumbing
Install faucets.
Trim
Hide all those mistakes and gaps with trim. (Good carpenters build…GREAT carpenters
hide their mistakes!)
Exterior Paint
This can also be done at any step. Pick a dry, warm, non-windy day!
Skoolie Conversion Enjoyment!
Get out there! See the world! Kick back and relax!Â